The Function Of Skin Care Ingredients
When we look at a skin care product, we usually read the information on the packaging, which tells us what the product will do for us. From there, our attention often goes to the list of ingredients. But what do those ingredients do? Why are they in this particular product?
The following is an ingredient list from a “balancing astringent.” For each ingredient, there is an explanation of function and source, when available. It is important to note that skin care ingredients are listed in order of predominance of concentration. Thus, the ingredient with the highest concentration is listed first, and so on.
BALANCING ASTRINGENT
WATER – Serves as a solvent. All the other substances are dissolved or mixed into the water.
GLYCERIN – Is a humectant because it draws moisture in the air into the skin. Has moisturizing properties and improves the spreadability of the lotion. It is made commercially by combining water and fat derived from vegetable oil.
SD ALCOHOL 40 – Is a high-grade version of ethyl alcohol. SD stands for “special denatured’ and 40 indicates the alcohol’s grade. It evaporates off the skin almost immediately, leaving the active ingredients behind on the skin. Alcohol is considered to be anti-bacterial.
PROPYLENE GLYCOL – Is a humectant (see glycerin above). Serves as a solvent for antioxidants and preservatives and is a moisture-carrying vehicle. Note: this is not the same as polyethylene glycol or PEG, which will be discussed in a future column.
SODIUM PCA – A high-performance humectant derived from amino acids (proteins are comprised of amino acids).
POLYSORBATE 20 – An emulsifier and stabilizer of essential oils in water. Derived from berries of the mountain ash tree or may be produced synthetically.
ALLANTOIN – An anti-irritant and healing agent derived from the herb, comfrey.
WITCH HAZEL – Traditionally used in the topical treatment of skin irritations and has some antiseptic properties. Derived from the Hamamelis plant.
SAGE EXTRACT – Considered to be anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiseptic and healing herb; obtained from the leaves of the herb, sage.
ELDER FLOWER EXTRACT – Used for its cooling, astringent, antiseptic and emollient properties and is especially helpful for problem or inflamed skin.
TETRASODIUM EDTA – A preservative.
FRAGRANCE – Used to enhance the product’s smell.
It is interesting to look at the ingredients of skin care products in this way. Initially, this product appeared to be essentially many chemicals with three herbal extracts. However, in reality, many of the chemical ingredients are naturally derived and provide a balance between providing moisture to the face, soothing irritation and provide a slightly antiseptic action.
For more information, you may wish to visit the FDA web site at cfsan.fda.gov or review the book, “Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary” by Natalia Michalun.
Next Issue: Parabens, DEA, PEG and other ingredients on the FDA Watch List.
Carol Ito, L.Ac., L.E. is a Licensed Acupuncturist and Licensed Esthetician. She can be reached for more information at (760) 568-1417 or info@acuandskincare.com